Husbandry of Neonate Chondros
My setup | My recommendations
I highly recommend Greg Maxwell's "The More Complete Chondro" for anybody interested in green tree pythons, especially those interested in purchasing a green tree python. This husbandry page is not in-depth and mainly outlines how I house and care for my neonate chondros, however I have included my recommendations. If you have more specific questions, the ChondroForum message boards are an excellent source or information, or you can contact me directly.
My setup:
I allow my hatchlings to emerge from their eggs in a hatch tub before placing them into individual tubs within a rack system.
I maintain my hatchlings in 6.5q Rubbermaid "Clear Impressions" containers until they are around a year of age. Below is a picture of the control tub within the baby rack system that controls the temperatures for all the tubs in the rack:
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A gradient of 86F (30C) to 80F (26.6C) is maintained from the back to the front of the cage using heat tape regulated by a Herpstat. I use plastic clothes hangers cut and hot glued together in a crisscross pattern as perches. A water bowl is provided and I usually place it close to the heat source to help maintain humidity. Young chondros defecate frequently so I suggest using paper towels as a substrate. Brawny "select-a-size" paper towels fit perfectly in the bottom of each Rubbermaid tub, so cleanup is quick and easy. I maintain high humidity levels in my hatchling cages. I do allow the cages to drop in humidity but rarely dry out. Typically, I avoid spraying hatchlings directly with water every day unless they are in shed. I make sure to keep a close eye on humidity levels when I start to see neonates go into shed. This can be hard to recognize in young chondros but look for swelling in the head region as seen in the two photos below:
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My racks are made from melamine and are protected from moisture using contact paper. The heat tape runs along a groove about three quarters of the way back from the front of the tubs and is regulated using a Herpstat. Below is a picture of what an entire rack looks like:
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I feed neonates every 4-7 days as long as they are taking full sized meals. Day old pinkies are offered to hatchlings and meal sizes are increased as the neonates grow. If a hatchling is refusing food, I will attempt to feed every 3 days and wait a few weeks before deciding to assist feed. If I have to assist feed a neonate, I usually attempt to offer meals every 3-4 days, assist feeding a pinky head if the snake refuses. I choose to assist feed pinky heads because I like to allow the baby the chance to practice swallowing a meal on its own. Hatchlings have to learn to recognize pinkies as a food source, then learn to strike at food, hold on to food, wrap food, and swallow food. Some babies catch on to this process faster than others.
My recommendations:
Regular cleaning and disinfection of hatchling cages is very important. Young chondros are fragile and require excellent husbandry practices in order to stay healthy. High humidity levels can encourage bacteria and other unwanted organisms to thrive so please keep their cages clean and provide fresh water frequently.
Bringing home a young chondro can become a challenging adventure for new owners. Often, young chondros are stressed for weeks after arriving at a new home. It is always best to have your small cage ready to go weeks before you place a new chondro in it. Temperature and humidity can take some time to get set just right. I recommend housing neonates in small cages, like a Rubbermaid, in a quiet area. While I do not recommend them, if a display cage is used, it should be small and have plenty of hiding places. Fake pothos vines from your local arts and crafts store provide excellent hiding areas. Neonates need to feel secure in their cage or they will become stressed and refuse to eat. I find that feeding problems most often persist in neonates that are housed in display type cages, clear sided "critter cages", and cages that are too large. A neonate chondro can live for over a year in a 12 quart size container and 2-3 years in a 20 quart size container. Perches should be removable and about the same diameter as the snake's girth.
I only handle neonates if absolutely necessary. Once they are strong feeders, I will get them used to being touched by removing their perch and cradling their perched bodies in my hand. Never force a neonate chondro off its perch and treat them like they are extremely fragile.
Good breeders will only sell established neonates to new homes, however, it's not unusual for a neonate to go off food in their new home. Patience and communication with the breeder are key to getting your neonate feeding again. This is not an uncommon sight from a new chondro:
You are hoping to get this sort of reaction when you present food after the lights go out:
So what do you do when you new neonate refuses food? Firstly, please do not panic as this is not an uncommon occurance. Please do not rush to assist feed, offer live food or pinkies scented with unusual animals that can pass on diseases. Contact your breeder for help as soon as you cannot get your baby to eat. Baby chondros that were well started when you received them can go many weeks without food.
The following are tips that you might find helpful for getting a baby chondro to accept food. Find out what kind of food was offered to your neonate. Try offering food at different times of the day, scent with chick down or rat fur, and try to not walk away from a feeding without at least one strike. Strikes will usually start off as defensive but many times if their open mouth comes into contact with a pinky, they will hold on. It's not unusual, however, for them to spit pinkies out and require several bites before they will hold on. Avoid contacting the front of their face with the pinky, but rather, tickling either side of their jaw or lips. Try and find your baby's "trigger" area. This is an area which they cannot stand to have touched. Aggravate this area in particular on a stubborn feeder. Feeding a stubborn neonate is a learned art and it is always best if you can observe someone with experience. You will probably be surprised at how aggressive you can get while still being gentle. Sometimes assist feeding is required if you notice your neonate is losing weight. Contact your breeder or ask someone if you need help!
As always, keep a positive attitude and watch out for those sharp little teeth!
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